Online Exclusive: Crash Course in the Beauty World
A cosmetics-loving college student checks out the latest trends on two continents and finds that portable beauty is the trend that transcends all cultures.

by Sanam Foroughi

We want to look our best all the time in no time. The fact is that we live in a fast-paced world and that

Sephora and OPI team up for nail care in Dubai.

the demand for portable makeup has never been so high. Beauty industry suppliers must provide consumers with ease, bringing convenience into time-constrained beauty regimens.

There is no waiting while standing in Sephora’s checkout line. It is a separate shopping experience in itself, with everyone reaching for something in the mini product displays. Sephora has picked up on the recent craze that favors tiny and handy makeup packages. Filled with small “tapas-like” products that can be taken anywhere and used swiftly, these shelves tap into consumers’ need for timely beauty. On-the-go makeup builds consumer loyalty by offering them the instant gratification they request. The application process becomes an integral part of the packaging.

Global brands are following Sephora’s trend spotting steps by jumping on the mini-makeup bandwagon. MAC launched a new line that caters to the needs of their jet-setting customers. MAC’s sized-to-go collection provides an array of products from their skin care line in mini, travel-size bottles that hold an ounce of product. The packaging is TSA approved and can therefore be taken aboard a plane. It is no longer solely the product that matters, but how usable and compatible its design caters to our lives. Successful beauty suppliers are escalating product packaging to new heights by adapting them to consumer lifestyles.

While aiming to provide everyday convenience, this is a trend that even the prestige market has familiarized itself with. Guerlain’s recent lipstick Rouge Automatique has no cap; it conveniently slides open for easy one-handed application. Its bright gold metal coating makes it easily identifiable and it comes with a sleek rectangular design to easily slip into your purse. “With the 21st-century Rouge Automatique, in one flick of a finger, she reveals the lipstick that will embellish her smile,” said Olivier Échaudemaison, Guerlain’s creative director. It is a luxury for the text-obsessed and fast-paced multi-taskers, delivering innovation into classic appliances. This adaptive formula is what timeless brands have used to strive in contemporary markets.

Nail Care Industry Up

History is swiftly repeating itself. Nail care sales in North America have surged as cash-strapped women focus on their nails as an affordable update to their look, just like the previous generation of women who

Nail care sales soar in North America.

had banished their troubles through cosmetics. “The Lipstick Effect” was a term coined after the Great Depression, which saw sales of lipsticks rise from 1929 to 1933. Even during the Second World War, the U.S. Government encouraged the inexpensive indulgence, naming it the “red badge of courage.”

When times are tough, my generation boosts their morale with an alternative warpaint—nail polish. Why nail polish? One of the latest beauty turnovers in recent years involves the rise of unconventional nail polish colors such as blue, black, gold, and even leopard patterned decals, which have become socially acceptable for all women.

This development is due, in part, to Peter Philips, global creative director of Chanel Makeup. Chanel consistently ranks among the top-five-selling prestige cosmetics brands, and is No. 1 in the nail color category. Though most people can’t afford a $3,000 Chanel handbag, many can afford the brand’s nail polish.

“I don’t say I invented green or orange nail polish,” Philips said, “but by putting those shades in Chanel packaging, you give it credibility. Industry leaders look to Chanel for direction … and trends driven by prestige brands affect the mass market.”

With the nail care industry’s boom, it is no surprise that cosmetic trend spotter Sephora teamed up with OPI Nail Colors to create a line of nail varnish. OPI executive VP and artistic director, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, believes that Sephora and OPI share a common vision of the modern women: “Fashion-forward, wearable nail colors for the woman who is looking for an effective, safe, environmentally conscious brand,” said Weiss-Fischmann. Sephora by OPI Nail Color, a line of 54 colors, draws the comparison between nail care and art, turning manicures into creative outlets.

Sales of nail polish have skyrocketed as women look for a low-cost way to update their look amid economic gloom. Eyes must be kept on the nail care market, as nails are one of beauty’s major trends right now, with nail colors and designs becoming the ultimate fashion accessory.

UAE Cosmetic Market
The cosmopolitan emirate of the United Arab Emirates, Dubai, is best known for its glistening hotels and impressive architecture, boasting the world’s tallest building. However, it’s not just buildings that have surged to the sky, but also the cosmetic market. Having lived in the UAE for 15 years, I have experienced first-hand Dubai’s rise as the gateway to the Middle-Eastern cosmetic market. Dubai’s widespread demographics have projected it as an attractive market for the beauty industry.

Ahmed Pauwels, chief executive officer of Epoc Messe Frankfurt, reported that “the UAE market for color cosmetic products will be worth AED 519.5 million by the year 2014, reflecting a 27.8 percent increase over the 2009-2014 period.”

This success ultimately rides on meeting the region’s beauty ideals. In order to truly understand and gratify market expectations, it is imperative to know who the consumers are. The dominant ethnic groups in the UAE are split into Emirati 19%, South Asian 45% and other Arab and Iranian 23% with a notable expatriate British community.

Indispensible beauty tools in the UAE include a strong emphasis on eye makeup because it is important to acknowledge that almost a quarter of women wear the hijab, leaving only their face exposed. Emirati women are part of this category and while being a small percentage, have the highest disposable incomes and spend one billion Dhs (127 million U.S. dollars) per year on beauty products. These high-maintenance women typically target the prestige market, spending vast amounts of money on glamorous facial and eye makeup and nail care.

As a general rule, dark eyeliner is a popular choice among Middle Eastern women, as it can be used modestly or heavily. Middle Eastern consumers are accustomed to high personal service and are value driven. Manufacturers must also note the climate in the UAE. With strong heat and humidity throughout the year, consumers look to counteract these effects. As a result, buyers tend to stay away from balmy, oily goods by selecting gel or water repellent cosmetics and lightweight formulas. SPF incorporated into makeup and anti-frizz hair serums are bestsellers in the region, utilized by all ethnic groups to cope with the climate.

The United Arab Emirates has become a significant market for color cosmetic products. Consumption of facial and eye make-up will continue to increase over the next few years. The UAE is a powerful emerging market, creating vast opportunities for cosmetics and personal care companies that take the time to do their research before entering the Middle Eastern market.